Tapestry Frames and Embroidery Hoops for Cross Stitch, Embroidery and Tapestry

Some people prefer to simply hold the piece of fabric in their hand while stitching. However many stitchers find it much easier to stitch on an embroidery hoop or frame. It also helps with keeping an even tension in the stitching, and makes it easier to see the design as it takes shape.

Embroidery hoops are very popular all over the world for cross stitch and embroidery. These hoops are not suitable for tapestry work. The canvas (mesh) is too stiff to be fitted into the hoop properly.

Embroidery Hoop

Embroidery hoops (as shown above) consist of an inner hoop and an outer hoop. These are normally wooden but can also be plastic, or a combination of plastic and metal. The common sizes are 4", 6", 8", 10" and 12" diameter.

First the fabric is placed over the inner hoop. Then the outer hoop is fastened on to the outside, so that the fabric is held taut and smooth, between the two hoops. The wooden hoop in the illustration above is the most popular type, where the outer hoop is fastened by tightening the metal screw.

One popular variation is the flexi-hoop, which can be used to display the completed work. It has a hook at the top for hanging the finished piece and is available in a range of colours and sizes. The outer hoop is flexible and is simply stretched over the inner hoop to grip the fabric.

Although they are hugely popular, embroidery hoops can have several drawbacks. They can tend to leave circular marks and the fabric has to be removed and repositioned as work progresses, particularly with larger designs. So after a while, many stitchers move on to a hand-held tapestry frame (as shown below).

Roller Frame (Easy-clip type)

The most popular type of frame for cross stitch or tapestry is the rotating or roller frame. The roller frame is kinder to the fabric than a hoop, causes less marks and allows for a greater working area.

With a roller frame, you fasten the top of the fabric to the top bar and the bottom of the fabric to the bottom bar. The bars are then rolled around to hold the fabric taut and fastened in position by tightening the wing nuts at each corner. After you have stitched the first section of the design, you simply loosen the wing nuts, roll the fabric up and then tighten the wing nuts again, ready to start stitching the next section.

The first roller frames had webbing strips attached to the top and bottom bars. You ran a tacking stitch along the top and bottom of the fabric to fasten it to the webbing strips. Later came the "easy-clip" type frames, like the one pictured above from the British firm Elbesee. With these the roller bars have a groove along their length and the fabric is fastened onto the bars with plastic clips, which locate into the grooves. Many stitchers prefer these newer frames because they avoid having to stitch the fabric to the roller bars.

Other types of frame are available, such as stretcher bars. Siesta frames have interlocking joints for easy assembly. All of these consist essentially of 4 pieces of wood or plastic (bars or tubes) which fasten together to form a rectangle, upon which the fabric is attached, sometimes using drawing pins or staples.

Roller Frame held in a Stand

Once the fabric is attached to a hoop or frame, it can then be mounted on a stand if you wish. Then you no longer need to hold the project all the time, which can be a great help in several ways.

Your hands are free to stitch with the two-handed method. With one hand above the fabric and one hand below, the stitching is much quicker. It is also less tiring than holding the project all the time and relieves stress on the hands. It also helps to keep the fabric cleaner, by reducing the hand contact with the material.

If you pick an adjustable stand, you can position the work so that you are seated in your most comfortable position. This can help a lot to avoid back strain. Some stands can have extra attachments conveniently fitted to them, such as a chart-holder and/or a magnifier or lamp. All of this can make for a much more pleasant stitching experience.

The stand shown above, which is made by Elbesee, is known as a "Posilock" stand. So called because of the mechanism which holds the adjustable arm positively in place. This prevents the arm from dropping down and ensures that your work is held exactly where you positioned it. The arm can be adjusted up and down as well as back and forward, so that for example you can sit back in an easy chair and enjoy your stitching at just the right height.

One-legged stands have the additional advantage of not taking up too much space, so that they do not clutter up your sitting room too much. These one-legged stands can hold embroidery hoops or tapestry frames up to 24 inches wide.

Two-legged Standing Frame

If you are working on a big project over 24 inches wide, you need the stability of a two-legged stand. The stand illustrated above has an integral easy-clip frame, where the cross stitch or tapestry is attached with clips. Some frames can also be rotated through a full 360 degrees to allow full access to the back of the work.

Other two-legged standing frames available include screw frames, where the bottom bar is moved downwards by screws to tension the work, and standing frames with joints on the legs, which allow for sideways repositioning of the frame.

Table stands are also commonly available, as are table clamps and seat frames. So there really is no reason to be uncomfortable while you stitch!

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